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THE PROVINCE OF UDINE
AND THE EUROPEAN
CIVILIZATIONS
mm
The province of Udine is like a
crossroads for the European culture
and remarkable traces of most
continental civilizations can be
found in this territory with such a
varied landscape. This province has
not very much in common with the
Netherlands and its dams, polders,
mills, tulips, canals and bicycles,
also because of their different
morphology. However, the Dutch
will surely like Friuli since they can
pick up some important elements
similar to their concept of life. The
same can be said for those who
come from northern and eastern
Europe. In this province, the
Europeans feel like they are at
home, and not simply on holiday,
/ust because of our cultural affinity.
As a matter of fact, the varied
landscape of Friuli with its moun
tains and hills, the plain and the
sea is accompanied also by a complex history. Thanks to the variety of historical events, there is no place in
Europe that has nothing to share with Friulian civilization.
Since the continent had just emerged, the first human settlements inhabited this stretch of land between
the Alps and the Adriatic Sea, the furthest part of the Po Valley and easy way for the major migrations. The
finds coming from the eastern Pre-Alps are similar to those discovered in Spain, France and Germany, which
shows that the first Europeans went through the same stages of evolution. Other finds dating back to more
recent periods of prehistory are located in the province of Udine. At Piancada, near Palazzolo dello Stella,
interesting finds have been discovered and are now kept in the Museum of Marinetto. The excavations of
Sammardenchia and Pozzuolo are important as well. These and other excavations show the existence and
the progress of unknown populations, who used refined techniques in the processing of various materials.
Friuli was later inhabited by the Celts, a misterious population that did not leave a literature of its own
but gave origin to an important civilization. The Friulian mountains are easy to cross and therefore this was
the route followed by the Celts for the commerce of salt, amber and iron. These steady commercial transac
tions gave birth to a sort of intra-continental community, which went from the Atlantic Ocean to the
Mediterranean and the North Sea and reached also the major Asiatic civilizations, Greece and the Etruscans.
Among the products of Celtic handicraft, which has its masterpiece in the tomb of the prince of Hoedorf
in Germany, there are pieces which were surely manufactured in Friuli. The Friulian Celts have also been cal
led Gauls and Carnics. After their decline, Friuli was conquered by the Romans and Aquileia was founded.
In 181 B.C., or even before according to some recent discoveries, a new Roman colony was established
and named after the river Aquilis, which at that time reached the sea creating a natural port. Thanks to the
commerce between the East and the West, the North and the South of Europe, Aquileia became more and
more important with its luxurious buildings, its lively society and its material and cultural richness. The
legions of Julius Caesar spent the winter not far from Aquileia. Many towns of the hinterland were named
after Caesar, for example Forum Julii and Juliurum Carnicum, the present Cividale and Zuglio. Emperor
Augustus spent a lot of time in Friuli, from where he governed his empire very easily thanks to the excellent
ways of transport by land. The street colled Julia Augusta reached Austria, Postumia linked the Po Valley and
the Balkans and Annia led to Rome.
Aquileia had profitable contacts with Alexandria, thus becoming the meeting point of eastern and western
culture. Not only had this city a lively commercial and cultural life, but it was also an important military and
difensive settlement against the invasions coming from eastern Europe.
In the second century, a particular Christianity flourished in Aquileia and found a way of expression in a
peculiar form of art. The rich treasury of sculptures, paintings, mosaics and various works made of iron,
glass, terracotta, gems and amber can still be found in Aquileia, in its museums, churches and excavations.
Aquileia is very important to study and understand the Roman civilization and since the 18th century it has
been an irreplaceable source of information for every historian and for the study of Latin language.
Aquileia spread its influence over a vast territory that became an ecclesiastic district called Patriarchate of
Aquileia. The great Aquileia was definitively distroyed by Attilo and the Huns in 452. Despite its decline in
comparison with the past, Aquileia is still a unique historical, artistic and archaeological centre in the world
and it is also a lively town.
The Celtic and Roman civilizations and the Hellenistic influence coming from Alexandria through Aquileia
unified Europe. Also Christianity contributed to unification in the following centuries but in the meanwhile
new Germanic population entered Friuli and the whole of Europe. Traces of the Goths, the Vandals, the
Franks and of other nomadic people can be found still today all over the province of Udine.
In the fifth century, the Longobards, a Scandinavian population of warriors led by king Alboin, reached
Cividale from the mount Matajur. Cividale became the capital of the Longobard kingdom, which was to inclu
de most of Italy. The Longobard civilization was much more evolved than the other Germanic populations
and it melted with the existing Celtic and Latin culture. Outstanding finds coming from Longobard graves can
be seen in the museums in Cividale. There is also a small temple, a real masterpiece with its beautiful deco
rations and in the cathedral, a Christian museum, the altar of king Ratchis strikes for its unmistakable
motifs. Longobard traces can be found also in other places, like S. Salvatore di Majano, Invillino in Carnia
and a wide area in central and eastern Friuli.
After the conquest of Cividale, the Longobards had an importnat role in Italy and in Europe for at least
two centuries but other nomadic people continued invading Friuli. During the 6th and 7th century, a Slavonic
population settled down in the eastern valleys of the province of Udine and in the valley of river Natisone.
This settlement was just the furthest part of a wide Slavonic area including a large number of nations, from
Slovenja to Croatia, from Poland to Russia. Traces of this rich culture can still be found in some words and
names of towns and valleys.
The language spoken in the small Resia valley gives a living evidence of a great civilization.
The Longobard kingdom came to an end when Charlemagne was crowned in 800 and became the empe
ror of the Roman Empire.
Friuli became part of Carolingian Europe, a sort of European Union where there was only one sovereign,
only one language (Latin), only one religion and a set of unified laws. Friuli was very well integrated in this
empire but it was also the weakest point because of its geographical position. At the end of the I Oth cen
tury, some disastrous Hungarian invasions decimated the population and distroyed the whole region.
A new civilization was founded in Friuli by the Germanic Roman Empire. In 1077 the Patriarchate of
Aquileia become an indipendent district that played an important cultural role and unified four populations:
Italians, Friulians Germans and Slavonians. Friuli had contacts with Germany and the rest of Europe thus
becoming a region with no frontiers. Friulian people started then to develop their own language, which was
a synthesis of various cultural contributions. The heritage left by the Patriarchate is still present in Aquileia,
Cividale and San Daniele.
In the Middle Ages, Friuli was also the centre of the commerce between Italy and Germany. Gemona and
Venzone became the most flourishing markets thanks to their favourable position on the way leading across
the Alps. Despite some earthquakes, Gemona has still a cathedral and a castle dating back to that period.
The cathedral and the walls of Venzone are also noteworthy.
In Carnia, Arta became important as it was rich in thermal springs and Tolmezzo grew to the main centre
of this area. A German speaking population settled down in Souris, Timau and Val Canale and became the
third most important ethnic minority in Friuli. The first crusade passed through this region too. As it was
made up of all European princes, it can be considered as a first attempt of unification, though only for war
purposes. In the Middle Ages, castles and fortifications were built all over Friuli and today they show how in
the past defence was organized. Osoppo is particularly noteworthy among this network of fortified facilities.
After the decline of the Patriarchate of Aquileia in 1420, the largest part of the province went under the
rule of Venice and the rest remained part of the German domain.
Venice's rule brought about a cultural change in favour of a more Mediterranean and Italian style. This
change is particularly evident in art thanks to the Venetian artists of the Reinassance. Many artists, renow
ned musicians and brilliant poets came also from Friuli.
Venice brought new ideas and opportunities coinciding with the great European cultural movements of
Humanism and Reinassance. Even though the relation with Germany was discontinued, a new connection
started with the West and the East thus enriching Friuli very much. Friulians were a population of farmers
but they did not shut themselves in their culture and took advantage of their peculiarity. Most churches,
towns and country villages date back to this period. Particularly noteworthy are the splendid dogal palace
Villa Manin in Passariano, the castle of Colloredo di Monte Albano, from where the poet Ermes and the
novelist Ippolito Nievo came.
Friuli went back on the European scene in 1797 after the French Revolution and thanks to Napoleon,
who gave this region, called District of Passariano, a renewed international role. As a matter of fact, the bat
tle on the river Tagliamento and the Treaty of Campoformido are integral part in European history. Friuli retai
ned its importance throughout the following fifty years of Austrian rule and it took part in the 1848 upri
sings especially with the brave resistance of the rebel towns of Osoppo and Palmanova.
The birth of the province of Udine dates back to those years. When it was officially established in 1866
after the unification of Itlay, it had inherited a historical and cultural tradition which joined the new nation
without losing its own identity.
Since the second half of the 19th century, many Friulians have emigrated to all European countries,
where they have been appreciated for their work and have in fact become the first European citizens.
The two world wars of the 20th century caused a lot of suffering in the province of Udine but they also
strengthened people's desire for peace and collaboration with the neighbouring contries. The friendship with
those countries and the cultural exchange have favoured the present process of integration and unification.
In the latest fifty years, the hard work and the determination of Friulians have made up for a long
poverty and enabled them to overcome the earthquake in 1976 with a fast reconstruction. Many centres in
the province have contributed towards this positive development in a wider context of great progress at
European level. These are Manzano and the industrial area specializing in the manufacture of chairs, the tou
rism centre of Lignano, San Giorgio di Nogaro with the industrial district of Aussa Corno, the commercial
town ofCodroipo, Latisana, Tricesimo, Tavagnacco, Tarcento and Tarviso that borders on three countries.
Thanks to its numerous cultures and languages, to its international art, to its hospitality towards large
numbers of tourists and to its commercial vocation, the province of Udine can today find a place among the
first regions of a united Europe.
Roberto Tirelli
